Northwest Philadelphia: Wooded Hills and Hidden Finds

Can’t-Miss Experiences

1. Make tracks

Part of the Fairmount Park system, Wissahickon Valley Park encompasses 2,000 acres of wooded land and the Wissahickon Creek running through it.

With its 50 miles of trails for hiking and mountain biking, the park lends itself to endless exploration and dramatic vistas. You’ll also find history here, in the form of a covered bridge, the 19th-century Valley Green Inn (now a picturesque restaurant) the 17th-century farmstead Historic Rittenhouse Town.

If you bike or run in Philly, chances are you’ll do it along the paved pathway adjacent to the Schuylkill River. Pick up the Schuylkill River Trail in East Falls for a few waterfront miles and either connect to the Wissahickon Creek Trail to explore Wissahickon Valley Park or head west to Manayunk, where the trail meets the canal towpath.

2. Branch out

The magnificent Morris Arboretum and Gardens sprawls across the former Morris Estate in Chestnut Hill, where its owners established an outdoor wonderland in a mix of garden styles (Japanese, English, wildflowers).

Today, the University of Pennsylvania owns and operates the teaching arboretum, which is open to the public daily, and now includes family fun like the Tree Canopy Walk and a seasonal train display.

A few miles down the road in Germantown, Awbury Arboretum was founded by the Copes, a Quaker abolitionist family who built and landscaped the estate, naming it after their ancestral village in England. In 1916, the Cope family made the arboretum free and available for public use, where visitors can observe the working farm, gardens and children’s play areas — not to mention over 2,000 trees.

3. Shop around

While housewares and art galleries draw many shoppers to the former mill town of Manayunk, you can find just about anything on Main Street’s commercial district: delightful gifts at The Little Apple, sassy women’s apparel at LILA, and cycling gear at Cadence. Recharge with an espresso at the Artesano Cafe while browsing iron works and potted plants.

If the cobblestoned streets and small town vibes of Chestnut Hill don’t lure you in, the beautiful storefronts on Germantown Avenue and intersecting streets will. Shop chic fashion, comic books, art books and check out the local food purveyors and lunch options at the indoor Market at the Fareway.

  — Photo by S. Ramones for Visit Philadelphia

The cobblestones extend to Mt. Airy, where the shopping has a distinctly crunchier, more bohemian flavor. Look for LPs and vintage finds at Sook Vinyl, curated and thought-provoking reading at Big Blue Marble Bookstore and foodstuffs and artisan gifts at the historic Weavers Way Co-op.

Further East, Germantown’s progressive, artsy scene reflects the neighborhood’s historic influences as a hub for abolitionism. Start at the independent, Black-owned Uncle Bobbie’s Coffee and Books and fuel up with a vegan cookie or croissant, then make your way to Perfectly Flawless for women’s apparel, and browse the socially conscious art at iMPeRFeCT Gallery or local crafts at Maplewood Collective.

4. Visit the home of revolution and abolition

Anyone looking to understand America’s history should spend some time in Historic Germantown, which includes a number of sites of interest ranging from the earliest Quaker settlement through the Civil War.

The prominent 18th-century estate Cliveden housed revolutionary soldiers during the war’s only battle in Philadelphia proper, celebrated every October during the Revolutionary Germantown Festival.

A Georgian-style home once belonging to James Logan, the secretary of Pennsylvania’s founder William Penn, Stenton offers a view into pre-Industrial America and its slave-based economy. It also housed Generals George Washington and William Howe surrounding the Battle of Germantown.

  — Photo by Visit Philadelphia

You can tour the grounds, gardens and farm of the Wyck estate, home to a Quaker Philadelphia family from 1690 to 1973. (Call ahead for seasonal hours around stepping inside the home.)

A German immigrant named John Wister built his family’s country home on Germantown Avenue in 1744. It was later taken over by the British before being reclaimed by the Wister family, when it was named Grumblethorpe and eventually opened to visitors.

And three generations of the Johnson family lived in Germantown and worked to abolish slavery. The Johnson House became a station on the Underground Railroad, housing runaway enslaved people in the attic. Visitors can take a tour by appointment or during posted hours.

5. Savor food and drink

In Manayunk, homestyle Italian gets a savvy remix at Mia Ragazza, where you’ll find rolled lasagna with whipped ricotta and tiramisu espresso martinis. Also on Main Street Manayunk: Chabaa Thai Bistro’s traditional Thai dishes like papaya salad and Pad See Ew, artfully plated in a colorful dining room.

A Germantown staple for decades, The Nile Cafe focuses on vegan cuisine with a Caribbean and soul flair — think jerk chickpeas and dairy-free mac and cheese. Grab a platter of shakshuka or doro wat at the Ethiopian and Middle Eastern eatery Salam Cafe, which also has plenty of vegan options.

Lauded by Michelin as one of the city’s best cheesesteaks, the unassuming Dalessandro’s lines up patrons out the door for its hot sandwiches and hoagies. At East Falls’ Taqueria Cresta, you can brunch on sopes Benedict or order carnitas tacos for dinner. In the cozy confines of White Yak in Roxborough, the kitchen focuses on Tibetan cuisine like potato momo and pingsha noodles.

For a quick coffee and pastry (or whiskey cocktail) in Chestnut Hill, try Char & Stave. At the bottom of the hill, local staple Night Kitchen Bakery offers slices of quiche and Jewish apple cake.

Cake, a daytime eatery set in a conservatory, offers a charming and sunny spot for salads and sandwiches. The community-minded Downtime Bakery in Mt. Airy prepares its breads, tomato pie and soft pretzels on a schedule, so check the website for the best time to score a desired item.

Downtime Bakery   — Photo courtesy Downtime Bakery

The beer garden at the East Falls location of Wissahickon Brewing Co. overflows with customers enjoying the dry-hopped lagers or masala chai cider along with food truck fare. The Euro-style Bar Lizette emphasizes craft cocktails and refined bar food in a salon-like setting.  A classic Chestnut Hill pub with a century-long history, McNally’s pairs its pints with the famous Schmitter sandwich (a cheesesteak with salami, fried onions and tomatoes).

You get a convenient pairing at Deke’s Bar-B-Que in Germantown, which serves smoked brisket and ribs next door to the Attic Brewing Co. Bring your food order over to the brewery to enjoy it in the taproom or beer garden.

Where to Stay

Stay in the heart of the “hill” at the historic and picturesque Chestnut Hill Hotel.

And the four guest rooms at Manayunk Chambers Guest House offer a B&B experience walkably close to Main Street and the regional rail station.

Chestnut Hill Hotel   — Photo courtesy Chestnut Hill Hotel

Local Tips

• East Falls, Manayunk, Germantown, Mt. Airy and Chestnut Hill can all be reached via regional rail and SEPTA bus lines.
• Located in Germantown, The Colored Girls Museum centers the experience of Black girls, women and nonbinary people with cutting-edge programming and changing exhibitions.
• A one-time Chestnut Hill estate was bequeathed to the city of Philadelphia as Woodmere, featuring the permanent collection of its original owner as well as temporary exhibitions.
• Northwest Philly holds multiple large-scale festivals and street fairs around the calendar year, and with some planning, your visit could include notable events like the Chestnut Hill Fall for the Arts Festival, the Manayunk StrEAT Festival, or the Manayunk Arts Festival.