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As much a lifestyle as a region, West Philly can sometimes feel like a completely different city. Where else will you find puppet parades, a traditional Japanese garden and Senegalese cuisine in such close proximity?
Stretching from the west bank of the Schuylkill River and University City to Cobbs Creek and between City Line Avenue to Kingsessing, this collection of largely residential neighborhoods fuses diverse people and distinct points of view.
Spruce Hill and Powelton Village formed the original “streetcar suburbs” in the Victorian era, and the well-maintained, elaborately detailed homes still retain their grandeur. In the late 19th century and early 20th century, West Philly attracted Black residents migrating from the South, becoming a hub for African American culture and the home of major figures like Julian Abele, Paul Robeson, Wilt Chamberlain, Patti LaBelle and many others.
In more recent years, the area has drawn people from across the African diaspora. Black-, African- and West-Indian-owned businesses power corridors like 52nd Street, Baltimore Avenue and Lancaster Avenue.
University City, housing both University of Pennsylvania and Drexel University, sets the stage for research, healthcare and campus life. The academic influence, coupled with West Philly’s long tradition of activism, makes it a dynamic hub of inquiry and ideas.
Visit this area for art and music, parks and trails, the nation’s first zoo and cuisine from every corner of the world. Read on for a few places to start.
As one of the largest urban park systems in the world, Fairmount Park spans trails and ball fields, horse stables and historic houses.
The park itself covers both sides of the Schuylkill River, but on the west side (i.e. the side in West Philly), you’ll find the magical Shofusu Japanese Cultural Center — a complex that includes a Japanese home and 17th-century style garden with water features — as well as Belmont Plateau, a celebrated picnic spot from which to view the city skyline, as well as landmarks like the Smith Memorial Arch, a Civil War monument.
Smith Memorial Arch — Photo by C. Martin for the Association for Public Art
Part of the Fairmount Park system, Philadelphia Zoo opened in 1874, making it America’s first. Today, the original Victorian design remains intact, with formal gardens and historic structures in between the exhibits. Look for Big Cat Falls (the habitat for lions, tigers and leopards), or take a swing on the WildWorks Rope Course. You can also observe big cats and primates moving overhead in the Zoo360 system of mesh tunnels or ride the Ferris wheel and children’s train.
Philadelphia Zoo — Photo by J. Fusco for Visit Philadelphia
More than a neighborhood green, Clark Park acts as a community hub for West Philly residents. Visit this Spruce Hill mainstay for recreational courts and fields, summertime Shakespeare in the Park performances and a life-size statue of Charles Dickens — not to mention artisan markets and food trucks.
The Woodlands, the onetime country home of William Hamilton, encompasses his 18th-century mansion and a 19th-century cemetery. Now a National Historic Landmark, the site invites visitors to explore its 54 acres daily from dawn until dusk and hosts public events like craft markets and birding walks. You can schedule a tour of the property two weeks in advance.
On the University of Pennsylvania campus, arts and culture thrive. The only museum in Philly dedicated to contemporary work, the edgy Institute of Contemporary Art presents the work of underrepresented and emerging artists across visual disciplines.
Set inside the historic Fisher Fine Arts Library, the Arthur Ross Gallery’s scholarly exhibitions led by the University’s faculty aim to educate students and visitors about art history and creative practices.
The jewel-like Penn Museum uncovers the shared threads of humanity across continents and time through anthropology and archeology. The collection includes more than 1 million artifacts, including gold and lapis lazuli jewelry that belonged to Queen Puabi in 2550 BC and the largest array of Mayan stone stelae in the country.
On-campus venue Penn Live Arts showcases leading-edge dance, theater and music performances, typically by touring acts of national note.
In Fairmount Park, you’ll find the Please Touch Museum, which has entertained children for decades with hands-on exhibitions and opportunities for play and exploration. Housed in the historic Memorial Hall, built for America’s Centennial celebration in 1876, the museum’s evergreen highlights include a make-believe supermarket, an antique carousel and a fairytale garden.
Philly residents enjoy the tradition of summertime concerts at the Highmark Mann Center in Fairmount Park. The charming outdoor venue hosts popular and classical music as well as live-scored cinema events.
The ultimate 20th-century multihyphenate, Paul Robeson — actor, athlete, scholar and activist — lived in Philly from 1966 until his death a decade later. At the Paul Robeson House and Museum, visitors can tour the property and view an exhibition of his life and contributions to American history.
Malcolm X Park, named in tribute to the civil rights leader, doesn’t cater to tourists so much as provide a community gathering place, replete with murals and an outdoor jazz series in the summer. Celebrating the end of slavery in 1865, the Juneteenth Parade and Festival takes place in Malcolm X Park every June, with a festive parade, vendors and live entertainment.
An annual event and local tradition, the Lancaster Avenue Jazz Festival brings together the city’s jazz musicians for a daylong showcase and street fair that benefits nonprofit HopePHL, a community service provider.
— Photo by Kevin Smith
The main commercial artery running through Spruce Hill and Cedar Park, Baltimore Avenue brims with culture and character. Look for vintage clothes at Manzanita, crafts and gifts at Vix Emporium, and new-school fromagerie Third Wheel Cheese.
Here, too, you’ll find a global panoply of restaurants and bars: Ethiopian fried chicken at Doro Bet, spicy crunchy snacks at Desi Chaat House, and banh mi at Fu-Wah Mini Mart. Nearby Vietnam Cafe serves broken rice platters and claypot braises.
For local drinking, stop at Carbon Copy for beer, wine, and small plates, or Dahlak, where the house cocktails accompany Eritrean fare.
The corridor that defines Powelton Village as its southwestern boundary and primary business hub, Lancaster Avenue actually stretches from Philly to Amish country. In the West Philly section, you’ll find vintage clothing at Blck Ivy and new apparel at The Silk Tent. Stay wired with local roastery Madi’s, or grab a cup at neighborhood chain Green Line Cafe.
Sabrina’s Cafe, known for its legendary pancake and omelet specials, packs in a daytime crowd, as do the smoked fish sandwiches at Bart’s Bagels. For lunch and dinner, the affordable eats include Quality Taste Jamaican, or Tataki Ramen and Sushi.
A ramen bowl from Tataki Ramen and Sushi — Photo courtesy Tataki Ramen and Sushi
Centrally located between University of Pennsylvania and Drexel, Sheraton University City offers convenient accommodations within walking distance to many sites of interest. In Powelton Village, Akwaaba’s bed and breakfast suites pay homage to Philly music icons. Or for a boutique hotel with an urban feel, The Study at University City builds on the academic theme with rooms that inspire reading.
The Study at University City — Photo by D. Knoll for Visit Philadelphia
Philadelphia is a city of vibrant neighborhoods bordered by a region of charming towns, with each area owning a distinctive personality. Explore the neighborhoods and towns in and around Philadelphia — their storied streets, interesting attractions, buzzed-about restaurants and year-round happenings.
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