Kopié nan kòlè
The familiar green-tiled awning of David’s Mai Lai Wah occupies the very most central corner in Chinatown, and the technicolor neon signs outside and in the window welcome guests with the promise of cocktails, noodles and the “best food in town.”
Hong Kong native David Chan opened his no-nonsense eatery in 1982, introducing generations of Philadelphians to dumplings and noodle dishes.
Revered for its salt and pepper wings strewn with sliced chile peppers and its luxuriantly late hours (the kitchen is open until 3 a.m.), David’s manages to stay relevant in a passionate food city without ever having to change a thing.
Given a steady nightly business going on almost four decades, David’s doesn’t put too fine a point on atmosphere, friendly service or creating a particularly seductive mood.
The vibe here is delicious food when no other kitchen is even considering staying open. Still, there’s a retro charm in the environs: Parchment colored wallpaper and landscape paintings cover the walls, while chrome accents and a wall-long mirror visually expand the boxy space.
Utilitarian chairs surrounding coral-clothed tables accommodate 60 seats, which can mean a wait on weekends.
This is a place to enjoy Hong Kong and Cantonese staples like congee and squid in satay sauce, with some Szechuan zest thrown in for good measure.
One of the city’s longest-running restaurants, David’s has stayed true to its mission amid the flow of trends.
Some of Philly’s most famous chefs stop in post-shift for a late-night snack of duck soup.
The Chinese foods many Americans encounter are here, too: lo mein, General Tso’s and egg rolls.
The fried pork dumplings with ginger scallion sauce, and crispy pan fried noodles with a choice of toppings, are, in addition to the salt and pepper wings, among the top sellers.
The small bar caters to nostalgia with Polynesian-style cocktails such as Singapore Slings with paper umbrellas. Naturally, the meal ends with fortune cookies.
La Visit Philly Overnight Package — rezève plis pase 190,000 fwa depi 2001 — vini ak pakin otèl gratis (ki vo jiska $100 nan Center City Philadelphia) ak lojman otèl pou yon nuit.
Get transported to the heart of Asian history and culture in Philadelphia …
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