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May 3, 2019

Philadelphia's Food Corridors Offer Neighborhood Dining At Its Best

Philly’s Food Scene Extends From Center City’s Thriving Streets To Farther-Out Fare

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Barbuzzo sits along the lively 13th Street corridor in Philadelphia’s Washington Square West neighborhood. Photo by N. Santos for VISIT PHILADELPHIA®
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At 10th and Race Streets stands Chinatown Square, a stylish, open-late, two-floor food hall of international specialties. Photo by M. Fischetti for VISIT PHILADELPHIA®
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The flagship location for La Colombe sits in a giant refurbished Fishtown warehouse that is part restaurant, part bakery and part bar. Photo by M. Fischetti for VISIT PHILADELPHIA®
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Diners and bar-goers enjoy the casually elegant atmosphere at Ellen Yin’s Fork. Photo by A. Ricketts for VISIT PHILADELPHIA®
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Vedge’s unforgettable plates and meatless cuisine always feature the freshest seasonal ingredients. Photo by N. Santos for VISIT PHILADELPHIA®
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Philadelphia is a city of neighborhoods—and spot-on neighborhood dining. Thriving restaurant rows have emerged across Philly, offering eaters a place to eat and explore, explore and eat. Within view of City Hall, Midtown Village’s chic 13th Street is home to Mexican, Spanish, Mediterranean, Japanese and all-American bistros. On the other side of the Schuylkill River, steps from the University of Pennsylvania’s historic campus, West Philly’s Baltimore Avenue anchors hyper-local coffee shops and markets, plus Thai, Laotian, Ethiopian, Middle Eastern, Indian and West African eateries. Trendy Fishtown is known for artisan-fueled, night-on-the-town operations. And South Philadelphia’s renewed East Passyunk Avenue showcases one “Top Chef” among many up-and-comers. Here’s a list of Philadelphia neighborhoods known for their exciting dining scenes:

Center City Food Corridors:

  • 13th Street/Midtown Village, 12th & 13th Streets, between Market & Spruce Streets
    Also lovingly nicknamed “the Gayborhood,” the busy urban district in the shadow of City Hall is a foodie haven. Chef Marcie Turney and wife Valerie Safran run a mini empire along 13th Street, with Lolita, Jamonera, Grocery, Barbuzzo, Bud & Marilyn’s—plus two shops, Open House and Verde—the latter happens to have its own chocolate studio. Chef Michael Schulson has built his own formidable portfolio with pan-Asian Sampan; part underground izakaya, part coffee and Vietnamese food bar Double Knot; and modern steakhouse Alpen Rose. Also in the mix: Maison 208, a beautifully designed New American spot with a retractable roof; wine bars Zavino and Vintage; vegan cocktail bar Charlie was a sinner; elegant vegan destination Vedge; and chef Marc Vetri’s first and finest Italian destination spot, Vetri Cucina.
  • Chinatown, between 9th & 12th Streets and Arch & Vine Streets
    One of the nation’s oldest, most textured Asian neighborhoods continues to delight modern diners with Sichuan, Cantonese, Burmese, Vietnamese, Japanese, Malaysian and so much more traditional to modern fare. Highlights include a do-it-all food hall (Chinatown Square), authentic dim sum (Dim Sum Garden, Tom’s Dim Sum), early-morning pastry shops (Bread Top House, St. Honoré), banh mi (QT), hand-drawn noodles (Nan Zhou Hand Drawn Noodle House, Spice C), late-night noshes (David’s Mai Lai Wah, Red Kings 2) and a swanky speakeasy-style bar (Hop Sing Laundromat).
  • Old City, between the Delaware River & 6th Street and Walnut & Race Streets
    Art galleries, independent shops, students and restaurants pioneered the revival of this Historic District neighborhood, home to Independence Hall, the Liberty Bell, the Betsy Ross House—and some very modern eating. Among Old City’s culinary trailblazers: Fork, Buddakan, the Continental and bring-your-own-bottle (BYOB) spot Chlöe. Today, the neighborhood is also home base for James Beard Award winners Michael Solomonov (owner/chef) and Camille Cogswell (pastry chef) of Israeli favorite Zahav and French bistro Royal Boucherie from chef Nicholas Elmi. Crawling with pubs and clubs, the blocks between 3rd and Front Streets and Market and Chestnut Streets bustle with bar hoppers. In season, the neighborhood’s beer garden scene includes riverside Spruce Street Harbor Park and Morgan’s Pier and, just across 6th Street from the Liberty Bell, Independence Beer Garden.
  • Rittenhouse Square, between Broad Street & Schuylkill River and Market & Pine Streets
    This busy, tony shopping and business district grew up around a verdant, seven-acre park. The neighborhood keeps as busy as ever after dark, when diners and drinkers flood sidewalks in search of food and fun. Some of the city’s most prolific restaurateurs have a strong presence here: Ellen Yin’s a. kitchen & bar; Steve Cook and Michael Solomonov’s Abe Fisher, Dizengoff and Goldie’s; Sam Mink’s Oyster House and Mission Taqueria; Jose Garces’ Tinto, Village Whiskey and Volvér; Michael Schulson’s Harp and Crown and Guiseppe & Sons; restaurateur Stephen Starr’s The Dandelion, Parc, Butcher and Singer, The Love, Continental Mid-town and El Rey; and vegan chefs Rich Landau and Kate Jacoby’s V Street. The neighborhood has no shortage of independent operations, too, such as veteran BYOB Audrey Claire, longtime sidewalk bistro Rouge and Greg Vernick’s Vernick Food & Drink.

South Philly:

  • Bella Vista/9th Street Italian Market, between 6th & 11th Streets and South Street & Washington Avenue
    Bella Vista is the traditionally Italian neighborhood south of Center City, now much more diversified. A major destination is the historic, gritty, open-air 9th Street Italian Market (between Catharine and Federal Streets), where browsers find just-made Mexican tortillas and chips (Tortilleria San Roman), tacos (South Philly Barbacoa, Prima Pizza Taqueria Mexicana), pastries (Las Lomas), Italian cheeses (Claudio’s, Di Bruno Bros), breads (Sarcone’s) and meats (Esposito’s). Another can’t miss: Fante’s, the country’s oldest kitchen supply store.
  • East Passyunk Avenue, between Washington Avenue & McKean Street
    Just beyond South Philly cheesesteak vendors Pat’s and Geno’s, this diagonal stretch of old-time shops and brick row homes retains its Italian-American roots while expanding into impressive culinary territory. On the Ave, “Top Chef” Nicholas Elmi operates elegant Laurel and edgy ITV. Pretty Fond and handsome Townsend showcase brilliant American cuisine. Abruzzi Le Virtù plays on longtime neighbors’ geographic roots, as does its sibling pizzeria Brigantessa. Saté Kampar showcases authentic Indonesian fare, Noord puts a modern twist on classic Scandinavian fare, and Perla updates Filipino dishes with savvy and skill.
  • South Street/Queen Village, between Front & 7th Streets and South Street & Washington Avenue
    Cheesesteaks, pizza and other fast fare pepper quirky and colorful South Street, which divides Center City and South Philly. Still, the street is also known for destination dining in Serpico. South Street serves as a border to charming Queen Village, where eaters enjoy elegant tavern dining in Southwark, traditional French cuisine at Bistrot La Minette, overstuffed sandwiches at Famous 4th Street Delicatessen, superb, splurge-worthy Japanese bar eats at Royal Sushi & Izakaya and deliciously rustic fare all-day at Hungry Pigeon.
  • Washington Avenue, between Front Street & Grays Ferry Avenue
    What this four-lane, industrial thoroughfare lacks in charm, it makes up for in culinary variety. Thriving Asian shopping centers straddle the historic 9th Street Italian Market (see above), offering a wealth of authentic, affordable Vietnamese fare (Pho 75, Nam Phuong, Pho Ha, to name a few). The avenue is home to one of the city’s first brick-and-mortar taquerias (Veracruzana) and two of Philly’s most popular taco trucks (Taco Loco and Tacos El Rodeo). West of Broad Street standouts include Mexican bistro Café Ynez and pizza pub Chick’s.

West Philly:

  • Baltimore Avenue, between 43rd & 50th Streets
    A college town atmosphere and a bohemian spirit of diversity, optimism and openness are the hallmarks of this stretch of West Philadelphia. Diners here experience the city’s best Ethiopian (Abyssinia, Dahlak, Gojjo), Pakistani (Mood Café), Mediterranean (Aksum, Renata’s Kitchen), Laotian (Vientiane Café), modern soul food (Booker’s), sustainable coffee (Green Line Cafe, The Gold Standard Café) and beloved neighborhood fare (Cedar Park Cafe)—and more.

Fishtown:

  • Between the Delaware River, Frankford Avenue and York Street
    These onetime industrial neighborhoods north of Old City have seen changes in recent years, adding into the mix residential lofts, edgy retail and happening restaurants. Newer culinary residents include international coffee roaster La Colombe, whose Frankford Avenue flagship includes a rum distillery; Kensington Quarters, a meat-focused brasserie; Italian-influenced Wm. Mulherin’s Sons; exquisite Lebanese restaurant/bar/coffeeshop/culinary boutique Suraya; pioneering local beer pubs Standard Tap and Johnny Brenda’s; some of the world’s best pizza (newly reopened Pizzeria Beddia); and ice cream entrepreneurs Little Baby’s.

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