“Behind the Eats: Philadelphia,” our new eating-around-town video series produced in partnership with Bon Appétit, tells the stories of three distinct chefs — and dishes from their restaurants — in three vibrant Philadelphia neighborhoods.
Andrew Knowlton, a long-time editor of Bon Appétit, cooks and chats with chef-owners Cristina Martinez and Ben Miller of El Compadre in the 9th Street Italian Market, owners Valerie Safran and chef Marcie Turney of Little Nonna’s in Midtown Village a.k.a. the Gayborhood and co-owner Nathalie Richan and chef Nick Kennedy of Suraya in Fishtown.
Watch as Knowlton learns how to whip up El Compadre’s stewed pork tacos in salsa verde, Little Nonna’s pan-seared gnocchi with wild mushrooms in truffle butter and Suraya’s Lebanese flatbread breakfast dish, man’oushe — all while discovering what drives the distinct personalities behind each of these exceptional neighborhood restaurants.
Historically an Italian-American neighborhood, the 9th Street Italian Market in the Bella Vista neighborhood of South Philadelphia is now a delicious and diverse district, filled with global dining options including Italian, Mexican and Vietnamese. Known not only for their food but also for their immigrant-rights activism, husband-and-wife chefs Cristina Martinez and Ben Miller moved to the Italian Market and combined South Philly Barbacoa — named one of the 10 best new restaurants in America by Bon Appétit in 2016 — with its sister restaurant El Compadre. In this episode of “Behind the Eats: Philadelphia,” Bon Appétit’s Andrew Knowlton goes beyond the restaurant’s award-winning barbacoa to chat with chefs Martinez and Miller and cook stewed pork in salsa verde with purslane and hand-pressed tortillas.
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Philly’s Midtown Village, proudly known as the Gayborhood, owes its transformation in part to chef Marcie Turney and her partner, Valerie Safran, who have helped transform a gritty Center City strip into one of Philadelphia’s busiest restaurant rows with their eating-drinking-shopping empire, We ♥ 13th Street. In this episode of “Behind the Eats: Philadelphia,” the couple invites Bon Appétit’s Andrew Knowlton to Italian eatery Little Nonna’s to learn more about the neighborhood over homemade gnocchi with wild mushrooms, celery root, blistered tomatoes and watercress in truffle butter.
Located in Philly’s ever-changing Fishtown neighborhood, Lebanese restaurant Suraya is all about collaboration and culture. Chefs and co-owners Nathalie Richan and Roland Kassis of Café La Maude joined forces with Greg Root and Nick Kennedy of ROOT restaurant + wine bar to open Suraya, named for the grandmother of Richan and Kassis. Zagat named it one of Philadelphia’s most-anticipated restaurant openings of 2018 and, in this episode of “Behind the Eats: Philadelphia,” Richan explains the history and heritage behind Suraya’s traditional cuisine, while Knowlton and Kennedy prep a classic Lebanese breakfast dish — man’oushe — using a homemade dough.
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